Lab-Created Food Hits Shelves — Is It Safe?

FDA approves lab-grown salmon for human consumption, relying solely on the manufacturer’s safety claims, raising concerns about transparency and accountability in food innovation.

Key Takeaways

• The FDA has approved Wildtype’s lab-grown salmon without independent verification, relying entirely on the company’s self-assessment for safety approval.
• Wildtype’s cultivated salmon, backed by investors including Bezos Expeditions and Leonardo DiCaprio, is now being served at Portland’s Kann restaurant with plans to expand to four additional US restaurants.
• Critics argue the FDA’s approval process lacks transparency, public input, and independent testing, setting a concerning precedent for future food technology regulation.
• Despite marketing claims about environmental benefits, research suggests lab-grown meats may actually have a higher global warming potential than traditional protein production methods.

FDA’s Questionable Approval Process

In a development that deserves serious scrutiny, the FDA has given the green light to Wildtype Foods’ lab-grown salmon based entirely on the company’s own safety claims. This approval marks the first cultivated seafood allowed for sale in America but raises significant red flags about the regulatory process. Unlike most food approvals, Wildtype’s salmon received clearance without independent verification, public comment periods, or transparent testing protocols. The FDA simply issued a “no questions” letter on May 28, 2025, indicating they had no safety concerns with the production process or final product.

“This letter concludes Wildtype Inc.’s consultation with the Food and Drug Administration regarding a cultured animal cell food product. We did not identify a basis for concluding that the production process… would be expected to result in food that bears or contains any substance or microorganism that would adulterate the food,” FDA stated in their approval letter to Wildtype Foods.

The FDA classified Wildtype’s product among “foods comprised of or containing the cultured cellular material,” declaring it “as safe as comparable foods produced by other methods.” However, critics note the absence of rigorous testing that would typically be required for novel food technologies. Jaydee Hanson, policy director at the Center for Food Safety, described the approval process as “outrageous,” highlighting the concerning precedent it sets for future food innovations.

From Lab to Table: The Production Process

Wildtype’s production method involves harvesting cells from coho salmon and growing them in steel vats with a proprietary nutrient blend. The company claims its process avoids contaminants like mercury and microplastics found in traditional seafood. The resulting “saku” product is marketed as sushi-grade salmon intended for raw consumption in dishes like sushi, crudo, and ceviche. Currently, the product is available at Kann, a Portland restaurant owned by chef Gregory Gourdet, with plans to expand to four additional US restaurants later this year.

“At Kann, we take pride in the ingredients we utilize. Introducing Wildtype’s cultivated salmon to our menu hits the elevated and sustainable marks we want our menu to offer guests who share a similar value system to ours,” Gregory Gourdet, chef and owner of Kann restaurant said.

The inaugural dish features the cultivated salmon with pickled strawberry, spiced tomato, strawberry juice, and an epis rice cracker. While this culinary innovation might sound impressive, Americans should know that Wildtype was not required to conduct animal feeding trials before selling their product for human consumption. This lack of comprehensive safety testing represents a concerning departure from traditional food safety protocols.

Environmental Claims Versus Reality

Wildtype and other lab-grown meat companies market their products as environmentally friendly alternatives to traditional protein sources. This narrative has attracted substantial investment from figures like Bezos Expeditions and Leonardo DiCaprio, positioning lab-grown proteins as solutions to environmental challenges associated with conventional agriculture. However, these claims deserve critical examination. A study from UC Davis suggests lab-grown meats may actually have a higher global warming potential than traditional beef production when accounting for the energy-intensive processes required.

“Our saku is sushi-grade and best served raw in dishes like sushi, crudo, and ceviche,” Wildtype claimed in their product marketing materials, focusing on the purity aspects rather than addressing environmental impact questions.

It’s worth noting that President Donald Trump signed an executive order in April 2025 to boost domestic seafood supply chains, emphasizing innovation and reducing import dependence. While cultivated seafood might align with this goal on paper, the lack of thorough environmental impact assessment raises questions about whether these technologies truly serve America’s long-term interests or simply benefit their wealthy investors.

The Bigger Picture: Food Sovereignty Concerns

The approval of Wildtype’s salmon follows similar clearances for lab-grown chicken from companies like Upside Foods and Good Meat, suggesting a concerning pattern in how novel food technologies are being fast-tracked without adequate public scrutiny. Notably, several states have already banned the sale of lab-grown meats due to concerns about safety, economic impacts on traditional agriculture, and questions about long-term health effects. These state-level actions reflect growing skepticism about the federal government’s ability to properly regulate these technologies.

“Wildtype’s achievement is a watershed moment for domestic seafood production and for the cultivated protein industry overall. The thoughtful, evidence-driven review proves that innovative food technologies meet the highest safety standards,” Dr. Suzi Gerber, Executive Director of the Global Cellular Agriculture Alliance, claimed in support of the approval.

However, many Americans remain unconvinced that such approval processes are truly “evidence-driven” when they rely primarily on manufacturer-supplied data. As more lab-grown foods enter the market, questions about transparency, accountability, and the future of our food system deserve serious consideration. The approval of Wildtype’s salmon doesn’t just represent a new menu item; it signals a potential shift in how our food is produced, regulated, and ultimately, who controls America’s food supply.